Asian Tailors

Perfect Tailor BKK in Bangkok seems to be a highly rated bespoke tailor. Given their location they provide clothing suitable for hot weather like linen and very light wool, and also cashmere and silk blends for tuxedos, evening wear, and special-occasion garments. They also make shirts. I'm not sure what their style of tailoring is: lightweight Italian-style with little structuring or English. Given the climate in Thailand is is more likely to be light structure.

Custom Embroidery

Hand & Lock are one of the finest custom embroiders in the world, making embroidery for the military and royalty in the UK.

Gammarelli

Tailors to the Vatican, Gammarelli has been making clothing since 1798. On Kirby Allison's video he also looked at clothing accessories for the layman. They are known for their silk socks, ties and scarves which are available in their shop in Rome. These items can also be purchased through their online store, except their socks which are sold online exclusively through Mes Chaussettes Rouges in Paris.

Warm Weather Fabric

According to AskOkey, besides linen, another fabric recommended for warm summer clothing is high twist wool available from many manufacturers. The open weave allows the cloth to breath more than standard fabric weaves.

Valet Stand

As noted by Tom Chamberlain of The Rake, a valet (pronounced val-et in England) stand is indispensable for tidily placing one's clothing at the end of the day, or preparing clothing for the next day. Honorific of London make some of the finest. Their premier version, "The Classical," provides a jacket hanger, a trouser rail, a tray to hold accessories and, at the bottom, a shoe rack. They make 6 varieties of valets.

The Classical

---

 

The Permanent Style

 

The Essential

---

Draper Woodworks make a modern style valet. For under $100, Home Depot has a simple valet.

Draper Woodworks

Home Depot

---

I went with this one from Winsome that was very reasonable and has everything I need.

Dressing Gowns and Robes

For lounging around the house or after a bath, a dressing gown and a robe are nice luxuries.

Derek Rose make some medium priced (£246) cotton dressing gowns such as the Paris 26 Jacquard Navy as well as some higher-end ones made of silk. They sell nice bath robes such as the Aston 36 Terry Cotton Navy for £154.

Paris 26 Jacquard

Aston 36 Terry Cotton

Hats

Hats can be worn in all occasions, from everyday to fancy dress. The most popular are the top hat, bowler, homburg, trilby, beret, Breton, fedora, flat cap, and the Panama. Optimo Chicago and Lock & Co. Hatters of St.James's St., London are manufacturers and suppliers of many styles of hats. The Nines sell Panama hats. Hornskov are hat makers who still make hats by hand and even make custom hats.

Bowler
19th century, after either John Bowler, a London hat manufacturer from the 1820s to the 1840s, or William Bowler, hat-manufacturer, of Southwark Bridge Road, Surrey, who sought a patent for the hat in 1854.

Fedora
1887, American English, from "Fédora," a popular play by Victorien Sudan (1831-1908) that opened in 1882, in which the heroine, a Russian princess named Fédora Romanoff, wore a center-creased, soft brimmed hat. Women's-rights activists adopted the fashion. The proper name is the Russian feminine of Fedor, from Greek Theodoros, literally "gift of god," from theos "god' + dōron "gift".

Trilby
In 1897, named after Trilby O'Ferrall, eponymous heroine of the novel by George du Maurier published in 1894. In the stage version of the novel, the main character wore this type of soft felt hat.

Porkpie
19th century, named after its resemblance to actual pork pies that were commonly found in English bakeries.

Homburg
In 1894, from Homburg, a resort town in Prussia (now Germany), where it was first made.

Top Hat
In 1793, the first silk top hat in England is credited to George Dunnage, a hatter from Middlesex, England. According to fashion historians, gentlemen began to replace the tricorne hat with the top hat at the end of the 18th century. A painting by Charles Vernet of 1796, Un Incroyable, shows a French dandy with such a hat.

Beret
19th century, from French béret, from dialect of Béarn, from Old Gascon berret for "cap," from Medieval Latin birretum, a diminutive of Late Latin birrus meaning a "large hooded cloak," a word perhaps of Gaulish origin.

Flat Cap (Ivy)
Dating back to 14th century England where it was simply called a "flat cap", called an "ivy-cap" in the USA due to its popularity at Ivy League schools in New England. Also called a "driving cap" because of its popularity amongst taxi-cab drivers in New York and Boston.

Breton
19th century, originally worn by senior officers in the Russian and Prussian Armies, later adopted by the working class in northern Europe where it became popular for its protective and water repellent qualities, especially amongst fisherman in the Breton (Brittany) region of France.

Panama
Attested from 1833, ostensibly after the country Panama but the hat was originally made in Ecuador. "Panama" was the name of a settlement founded in 1519, from a Guarani word traditionally said to mean "place of many fish."

---

Casual Hats

My go-to casual hat is the finest made sailing hat in the world — the Tilley T3. Designed by Alex Tilley, an avid sailor, who could not find a high quality hat for sailing, so he designed his owned and started a company to produce them. They are now popular world wide. I have had two of the T3s in size 7 ⅜. The first one wore out after about 25 years and was replaced for free. My size is 7 3/8.

AskOkey

AskOkey (moniker of the founder, Okey O. Onyegbule) is a British tailor who has a unique look compared to most Savile Row houses. They have recreated the older style suits of the 1940s and 50s with a modern twist. Particularly the jacket is longer, fully covering the buttocks and crotch. Compared to contemporary tailoring, the trousers have a much fuller leg (compared especially to Italian tailoring) and they ride higher. For all of these factors his detractors call his style "old fashioned."

I have watched many of his videos and agree with a lot he says on the points noted above, but I do not like, what are to me, the excessively wide lapels. I do not like lapels any wider than one half the distance from the shoulder to the lapel fold. There are many interesting articles on AskOkey's blog. They are also on Instagram and Facebook, and have a Youtube channel.

AskOkey also have an app called Color Genie that helps to select the best colour combinations from your wardrobe. Avaialable for iPhone and Android.

AskOkey's Color Genie app

AskOkey in his style

Vintage & Hawaiian shirts

For sharp looking casual shirts nothing beats the great shirts of the 1940s and 50s with stylized "modern" designs. The character Kramer on Seinfeld and Charlie on Two and a Half Men often sported these classic shirts (or their reproductions). They are available in second hand clothing stores, but they have become quite expensive and are now referred to as "vintage" rather than "used."

I usually like to stick to natural fabrics, but almost all these shirts were made original from rayon which is called a "semi-synthetic" fabric made from wood cellulose that is highly processed to give it a silk-like sheen. The current reproductions are usually 100% polyester.

I found two online sellers: Hardaddy and Fydude that sell modern interpretations of these classic designs. I saw Hardaddy on a Facebook add and from the reviews that I read they seem to be a scam selling replacement items, or sending nothing at all! Best to buy Hardaddy from Amazon or other reputable sellers.

Kramer's lobster shirt

Hardaddy - Coconut Tree

Hardaddy - Geometric Color Block

Hardaddy - Cocktail Party Blue

Hardaddy - Medieval Pattern (green)

Fydude - Atomic Geometry 1950s Cocktail

Fydude - Modern Geometric Print

Fydude - Casual Martini Graffiti

Fydude - Casual Line Drawing Striped (green)

Shoes

There is a huge range in the variety of shoes and manufacturers around the world, from off the shelf designer shoes to bespoke, with prices from a around a hundred dollars to thousands.

If you think a lace knot is just a lace know Kirby Allison shows how to tie the Berluti knot.

Slippers

Some of the nicest slippers are made by Drapers of Glastonbury in England. A variety made of leather or cloth, and with or without shearling wool lining. Also available from Mes Chaussettes Rouge of Paris.

Anton Shearling

Charles Leather

Maine Shearling Moccasin

Guayabera shirts

Pronounced "gwy-e-bara" or "gwy-e-vara" (aka camisa de Yucatán), guayabera are lightweight linen or cotton (occasionally silk) shirts with a distinctive vertical pleat or design in the weave which makes it stand out from a plain cotton or linen shirts. It can be short or long sleeved, and usually have two breast pockets. They are thought to be originally from the Philippines but became very popular in Cuba and are now popular throughout Latin America.

The guayabera, especially the short sleeved version, looks quite casual, but according to Wikipedia: "The guayabera is often worn in formal contexts, such as offices and weddings. In Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Mexico, and Puerto Rico guayaberas are part of the traditional wear for men and may be considered formal wear^. In 2010, Cuba reinstated the guayabera as the "official formal dress garment."

For Cubavera brand shirts my size is "Large."

Cubavera 100% linen

Guayaberas y Mas linen	Dos Carolinas cotton

Suppliers:
Cubavera 100% linen guayabera shirts (under "Fabric Type" select "100% Linen").
Dos Carolinas cotton guayabera shirts.
Guayaberas y Mas linen guayabera shirts.

Source: Wikipedia

Socks

Good quality socks are needed for both dress wear and for comfortable walking. Natural fibers are the best. Artificial fibers, though long lasting, tend to create excessive friction and hold in moisture. Look for fine wool or linen (or linen/cotton blends) for the best comfort, or cotton for everyday wear.

I have tried The Nines and Flaxsox (see below) and like both. The Nines are comfortable and feel cool, and are of very high quality and look great. I have the blue and khaki (in size 39/45). The Flaxsox are okay and are very cool with such an open weave that they are slightly see-through. Because they are 100% linen the fit is a little loose. The elastic band at the top is too narrow and also tends to roll. They are more a work-a-day sock compared to the dressier The Nines.

The renowned Parisian sock retailer Mes Chaussettes Rouges sell a couple of brands of linen or linen/cotton blend socks: Bresciani and Mazarin.

---

The Nines of Paris make fine light linen socks. From their website:

"When it gets really hot in the summer, linen socks are the best choice! Lightweight, breathable, soft and durable, they are the perfect socks for summer, because they give you what you crave most when the temperatures shoot through the roof: a pleasant cooling effect!"

and

"With linen socks we say bye bye to sweat and smelly feet! Breathable, soft and durable, linen keeps your feet fresh and comfy during summer."

The Nines linen socks in Hazelnut, Blue and Khaki

These are a linen blend of 60% linen, 30% Egyptian cotton, 7% nylon and 3% lycra.
They also make cotton (85% cotton, 10% Nylon and 5% Lycra), cashmere (30% Cashmere, 50% Viscose, 15% Polyamide and 5% Lycra), and wool (80% wool and 20% polyamide.) socks.

---

Wool socks are considered to be good for both cold and warm weather: for their insulation characteristics and ability to wick moisture away from the skin, and Merino is considered to be the best type of wool for socks. Many of the Merino wool socks are quite heavy intended for hiking in all weathers. Light-weight Merino, suitable for summer wear, is harder to find, particularly ones that have a high Merino content in their blend. One supplier is Pantherella whose Naish line is 90% Merino and 10% nylon.

Pantherella Naish beige

Pantherella charcoal

Pantherella also make lightweight summer sock which is a 44% Linen, 31% Egyptian Cotton and 25% Nylon blend.

Available from Amazon.ca and Harry Rosen, Toronto.

---

Another noted maker of fine wool socks is Nobile from Italy. They make a merino wool sock blend of 80% merino, 18% nylon and 2% Lycra. Available colours are black, blue, anthracite [medium grey], smoky grey, dark green, Bordeaux, orange, violet, and ruby red.
They also make Hircus goat cashmere (95% cashmere, 3% polyamide and 2% Lycra), and Mulberry silk (80% class A mulberry silk 18% polyamide and 2% Lycra) socks.

---

Flaxsox is a manufacturer of 100% organic linen socks. From their website:

Men's linen socks made of flax fabric, soft and lightweight. Their mesh-like pattern allows easy respiration for the feet skin. The thread knitting was designed so that the socks are a bit stretchy allowing perfect comfort.

Linen is known for its sweat-absorbing as well as antifungal, antimicrobial and hypoallergenic properties.

• 100% Linen
• Organic Linen, no herbicides nor pesticides when cultivated
• Thin, Breathable
• Perfect for hiking, sports, workouts
• Moisture absorbing
• The socks are made of organic linen cultivated with no herbicides nor pesticides. Linen is known for its great moisture-absorbing properties, making the socks good for humid climates and for activities requiring physical efforts.

Men's Thin Breathable Mesh-knitted Organic Linen Socks

---

US/Canada Sock size comparison chart

US/Canada Sock Size	EU Sock Size	Foot Length Range (cm)	Foot Length Range (in)
Men’s 9-12	39-42	24-27	9½-10½
Men’s 12-16	43-46	27-30	10½-12
Women’s 5-9	35-38	22-24	8½-9½
Women’s 9-12	39-42	24-27	9½-10½

---

Washing

Unless the maker suggests otherwise, wash linen socks by hand. Here is the preferred method:

1. Fill a basin or sink with tepid water and add a gentle hand-washing detergent.
2. Agitate the water with your hands to evenly distribute the soap and add your linen item.
3. Let soak for up to 30 minutes, then rinse.
4. Do not wring or twist the linen. Instead, simply press against the side of the basin or sink to remove excess water.
5. Lay to dry on a rack; do not hang to dry. Optionally you could press between dry towels to remove moisture before drying.

Purdey of London

Known mostly as the manufacturer of fine hunting guns, Purdey is also a purveyor of fine clothing and accessories. 

Ridge Parka Jacket

Dents gloves

Since 1777, Dents has been making high quality men's and women's gloves. For her 1953 coronation, Queen Elizabeth wore Dents gloves.

As one website notes about the workmanship that goes into Dents gloves: "Glove-making is a complex craft requiring up to fifty different components and thirty different manufacturing operations to produce a single pair. The quality of any pair depends on the grade of the leathers used and the level of attention given to the stitching and construction."

They make everything from cold weather sheepskin gloves to light driving gloves. Materials used for their leather gloves range from goat skin, sheepskin, cowhide and deer hide, and can be lined in wool, silk, fleece, cashmere or fur. And they also make tweed and wool cloth gloves.

Daniel Craig (as James Bond) wearing Dents gloves

Fabrics

The range of fabrics available for suits and shirts is amazing and daunting. Daunting when trying to decide the perfect one for a new purchase.

Here are a few of the best: Carlo Riva, David & John Anderson, Holland and Sherry, and Scabal. Harrisons has a portfolio of brands: H. Lesser & Sons, Harrisons, Lear Browne & Dunsford, Porter & Harding, Smith Woollens, and W. Bill. 

The range of wool available from around the world is incredible, from sheep and lambs wool to the super fine wool of  Guanaco and Vincuna. Alpaca wool is fairly expansive at $2.00 - $3.00 per ounce, but Vicuna wool is the most expensive at around $15.00 per ounce.

Camel hair is a popular fabric for overcoats. Standeven is one of the best. A British firm located in Bradford England, they have sales agents in 28 other countries.

Fox Brothers & Co are the premier manufacturers of flannel, and also make linen, merino wool, and tweed.  

A herd of Vivuna

For dinner suits (or Tuxedos) either Barathea, a type of wool, or mohair is used. Fox Brothers are a provider of Barathea.

Casual jackets

From The Chap's Guide comes the classic outdoor jacket, the Barbour Classic. His is the Kyle model which is no longer made, but a full selection is available on their website.

Knitware

A relative newcomer to the fashion industry is Colhay's of Scotland. Only a few years old, it has quickly become known for the high quality of its knitware.

Lambswool shawl collar cardigan in grey

Cashmere ribbed submariner rollneck in ecru

Cashmere shirt cardigan in camel

Ravazzolo

Of the suit makers I've seen I prefer the Italian style over British and American. Of the Italian tailors I've seen I most like Ravazzolo based in Grumolo delle Abbadesse (about a 30 minute drive from Padua), but they also have an outlet in Milan.

Safari wear

Rohan of the UK have an extensive line of high quality outdoor and travel wear.

The classic safari outfit as conceived by Huntsman of Savile Row was made for Clark Gable for use in the movie Mogambo in 1953.