by Tanisha Angel
Manofmany.com
March 30, 2020
There comes a time
in every man’s life when off the rack just won’t do. Enter:
bespoke footwear. Also known as ‘custom’ or ‘made-to-order’,
the world of bespoke footwear can be a tricky one to navigate. The
true bespoke process involves a custom shoemaker getting to know you
and your style, and having an in-depth discussion about exactly what
kind of shoes to make, customisable right down to the toe shape. This
truly bespoke experience can leave you waiting months or even years
for your shoes.
Of late, the bespoke
title has also been given to companies who offer pre-designed styles,
and make them to order based on your measurements. These can be
produced in a shorter time frame and typically cost a fraction of
their truly bespoke counterparts.
Whether you favour
the traditional approach of the English, the sleek, distinctly
European silhouettes of the Italian, or the emerging Spanish and
Australian markets, we’ve got something for everyone. To help you
put your best foot forward, here is a list of the 13 best shoemakers
in the world.
1.
John Lobb
Likely the most
infamous shoemaker on this list, John Lobb founded his eponymous
bespoke footwear company in 1866, having been in the business since
1849. John Lobb operates independently in England and as part of the
Hermès group in Paris. Known for their traditional English
shoemaking style, John Lobb shoemakers handcraft each pair from
premium leather and feature a Goodyear welt (allowing for resoling).
Perhaps most well known for being the preferred shoemaker of Charles,
Prince of Wales (who still sports a pair of John Lobb oxfords from
the 70s), a pair of bespoke John Lobb shoes is a timeless investment
piece.
Headquarters:
London, UK
Founder: John Lobb
Founded: 1849,
Basingstoke, UK
Parent organisation:
Hermès
A tale of three
Georges; George Cleverley is currently headed by George Glasgow Snr
and George Glasgow Jnr, who inherited the company from the eponymous
creator himself. With workshops across England, George Cleaverley’s
clientele range from David Beckham to Winston Churchill. The
illustrious shoemaker uses resoleable Goodyear welting and offers all
classic footwear options, as well as more contemporary styles like
monk strap brogues.
Headquarters:
London, UK
Founder: George
Cleverley
Founded: 1958,
Mayfair, UK
3. Carmina
Founded in Spain in
1866, Carmina have steadily expanded across the world whilst
retaining their fastidious production style. With fifteen lasts
designed to accommodate various foot shapes and differing aesthetics,
and Goodyear welt stitching allowing for resoles every few years,
Carmina is an ideal entry level bespoke footwear option.
Headquarters:
Mallorca, Spain
Founder: Matías Pujadas
Founded: 1866,
Mallorca, Spain
Australia doesn’t
have much of a market for bespoke shoes, however Andrew McDonald
didn’t let that stop him from bringing them to our shores anyway.
Formerly of John Lobb in London and Hermès in Paris, McDonald
imbues traditional European shoemaking with a uniquely Australian
sensibility, making quality bespoke footwear wearable down under.
Founded: 1999
Founder: Andrew
McDonald
Located in: Sydney,
Australia
Founded in England
in the 19th century by Charles Jones and Sir James Crockett, Crockett
& Jones remains owned and operated by the fourth generation of
the original founding families. Utilising Goodyear welting and an
eight stage construction process, Crockett & Jones shoes are made
to last. Though their offerings are traditional, they’ve managed to
retain their appeal, with Daniel Craig’s James Bond wearing them in
Skyfall and Spectre.
Headquarters:
Northampton, UK
Founded: 1879
Founders: Sir James
Crockett, Charles Jones, James Crockett
Subsidiary: Crockett
And Jones Usa, Inc.
6. Edward Green
The eponymous label
was established in Northampton, England, in 1890 by a former
shoemaker’s apprentice. To maintain their high quality, Edward
Green produce just 250 pairs of shoes a week, utilising the hallmarks
of traditional English shoemaking; Goodyear welts, full grain
leather, and hand-cut patterns.
Headquarters
location: Troy, New York, United States
Founder: Edward
Green
Founded: 1890
7. J.M. Weston
French label J.M.
Weston was founded in 1891 by Édouard Blanchard, with their
production remaining centered in their workshop in Limoges to this
date. J.M. Weston own their own tannery, allowing them to retain
control of almost the whole production process. Like many of the
shoemakers on this list, they use Goodyear welt construction,
allowing for their footwear to last decades with resoling. The French
label imbue traditional English shoemaking with a Gallic approach;
the resultant footwear being less traditional and more contemporary.
Founder: Édouard
Blanchard
Founded: 1891
Headquarters:
Limoges, France
Based in Glasgow,
the Scottish brand has been making quality footwear since 1925.
Buchanan Bespoke infuses its footwear with Scottish charm, with their
bespoke shoes allowing for an individualised selection of leather and
tartan.
Founded: 1925
Headquarters:
Glasgow, Scotland
9. Berluti
The French fashion
house was founded in Paris in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti as a
maker of bespoke footwear, and has since expanded to accessories and
read-to-wear from 2005 onwards. However, Berluti’s bespoke shoes
remain the essence of the house; entirely handmade and customisable,
Berluti footwear is still produced in their Parisian workshops.
Renowned for their unique lace up shoes made from a single piece of
leather with no visible stitching, Berluti shoes are loved by many,
with their esteemed clientele including Andy Warhol and Jean
Cocteau.
Headquarters
location: Paris, France
Founder: Alessandro
Berluti
Founded: 1895
Subsidiaries:
Societe Nouvelle de Chemiserie Arnys, Anthony Delos
Parent organisation:
LVMH
10. Paolo Scafora
Paolo Scarfora
established his eponymous brand in Naples, Italy, in 1956, with the
company currently being run by his grandson. Originally producing
ready-to-wear footwear, Paolo Scafora has been offering bespoke shoes
for the past decade. The handmade shoes utilise plastic lasts rather
than wood, allowing them to be produced relatively quickly; in just
four to six weeks.
Headquarters
location: Naples, Italy
Founder: Gennaro
Scafora
Founded: 1956
11. Loake
Founded in
Northamptonshire, England, in 1880 by three brothers, Loake has stood
the test of time; incorporating contemporary options into their
classic range. Though not bespoke, Loake are a high-quality,
affordable introduction into the world of custom shoes. Whilst
factory made, Loake shoes still incorporate some handcrafted elements
and utilise a Goodyear welt, allowing them to be resoled.
Headquarters
location: Northamptonshire, UK
Founders: Thomas
Loake, William Loake, John Loake
Founded: 1880
12. Ludwig Reiter
Viennese heritage
shoemaker Ludwig Retier has been producing bespoke shoes since 1885,
adopting the Goodyear welting technique in the early 1900s. Ludwig
Reiter creates high-quality footwear in the Viennese style, with
elements of traditional English shoemaking. In recent years, they’ve
expanded into modern ready-to-wear styles like sneakers, and have
collaborated with designers like Helmut Lang.
Headquarters
location: Vienna, Austria
Founders: Ludwig
Reiter I, Anna Reiter
Founded: 1885
One of the few newer
shoemakers on this list, eponymous Italian brand Antonio Meccariello
has been producing bespoke shoes since 2012. With a family history in
shoemaking and a prior collaboration with Mariano Rubinacci,
Meccariello personally consults and fits his clients in his showroom
just outside Naples, Italy. In addition to a bespoke service, Antonio
Meccariello has a read-to-wear range which makes for a good starting
point for the budget shoe lover.
Headquarters
location: Napoli, Italy
Founder: Antonio
Meccariello
© 2018 Man of Many
Pty Ltd
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