Friday, December 2, 2022

Dents gloves

Since 1777, Dents has been making high quality men's and women's gloves. For her 1953 coronation, Queen Elizabeth wore Dents gloves.

As one website notes about the workmanship that goes into Dents gloves: "Glove-making is a complex craft requiring up to fifty different components and thirty different manufacturing operations to produce a single pair. The quality of any pair depends on the grade of the leathers used and the level of attention given to the stitching and construction."

They make everything from cold weather sheepskin gloves to light driving gloves. Materials used for their leather gloves range from goat skin, sheepskin, cowhide and deer hide, and can be lined in wool, silk, fleece, cashmere or fur. And they also make tweed and wool cloth gloves.

Daniel Craig (as James Bond) wearing Dents gloves

Tuesday, May 17, 2022

Fabrics

The range of fabrics available for suits and shirts is amazing and daunting. Daunting when trying to decide the perfect one for a new purchase.

Here are a few of the best: Carlo Riva, David & John Anderson, Holland and Sherry, and Scabal. Harrisons has a portfolio of brands: H. Lesser & Sons, Harrisons, Lear Browne & Dunsford, Porter & Harding, Smith Woollens, and W. Bill. 

The range of wool available from around the world is incredible, from sheep and lambs wool to the super fine wool of  Guanaco and Vincuna. Alpaca wool is fairly expansive at $2.00 - $3.00 per ounce, but Vicuna wool is the most expensive at around $15.00 per ounce.

Camel hair is a popular fabric for overcoats. Standeven is one of the best. A British firm located in Bradford England, they have sales agents in 28 other countries.

Fox Brothers & Co are the premier manufacturers of flannel, and also make linen, merino wool, and tweed.  

A herd of Vivuna

For dinner suits (or Tuxedos) either Barathea, a type of wool, or mohair is used. Fox Brothers are a provider of Barathea.

Sunday, May 15, 2022

Casual jackets

From The Chap's Guide comes the classic outdoor jacket, the Barbour Classic. His is the Kyle model which is no longer made, but a full selection is available on their website.

Monday, January 24, 2022

Knitware

A relative newcomer to the fashion industry is Colhay's of Scotland. Only a few years old, it has quickly become known for the high quality of its knitware.

Lambswool shawl collar cardigan in grey

Cashmere ribbed submariner rollneck in ecru

Cashmere shirt cardigan in camel

Monday, October 11, 2021

Ravazzolo

Of the suit makers I've seen I prefer the Italian style over British and American. Of the Italian tailors I've seen I most like Ravazzolo based in Grumolo delle Abbadesse (about a 30 minute drive from Padua), but they also have an outlet in Milan.


Tuesday, May 18, 2021

Safari wear

Rohan of the UK have an extensive line of high quality outdoor and travel wear.

The classic safari outfit as conceived by Huntsman of Savile Row was made for Clark Gable for use in the movie Mogambo in 1953.

Thursday, May 6, 2021

Linen

My favourite fabric for summer cothing is linen. It is the coolest wearing fabric, all natural and has been used as clothing material for millennia (Egyptian mummies were wrapped in linen). It is derived from the flax plant which grows throughout Europe and north Africa.

There are grades of linen from extremely light to heavy Irish linen.

David & John Anderson make some of the highest quality linen fabric (and they also make some of the finest cotton fabric available). Their Lino 130 Tf is the finest linen available, weight 104/112.

Lino 130 Tf

They also make the best linen/cotton blend, the Zephir 170 Lino 55% linen, 45% Egytian cotton, weight 84/92.

Spence Bryson of Portadown, Northern Ireland specialize in linen manufacture. Used and recommended by AskOkey. Also recommended by AskOkey is Maison Hellard located in Assat, near Toulouse. He discussed these in connection to the heavier weaves he used for a safari jacket though they also may make lighter weaves.

Another fine manufacturer of linen and linen blends is Carlo Riva now owned by Fermo Fossati. Carlo Riva is sold by The Merchant Fox, London. A bit of a quirky company, they will not sell to just anyone — they have to know how the fabric will be used. 

A shirt of Carlo Riva material

Irish linen, of course, is well known. Moygashel and Spence Bryson are two of the best.